Jackson River Wild Browns & ’Bows
Starting off as a tiny freestone stream in the Allegheny Highlands of northwest Virginia, the Jackson River spills through three counties, eventually becoming a tailwater trout fishery before joining the headwaters of the James River. Along the way, the Jackson drains much of the million-acre George Washington National Forest, providing so many different opportunities that during the course of a day it’s possible to catch native brook trout on attractor drys, cast streamers to large lake-run browns, and make delicate presentations to wild rainbows sipping tiny midges. The Jackson offers these opportunities freely—fly fishers need only learn when and where to find them.
River Access
Access to the Jackson is most abundant in the upper freestone reaches of the river before it reaches Lake Moomaw. The tailwater section immediately below Lake Moomaw and Gathright Dam has a short stretch of public water, but the Jackson then flows for several miles through private property with few walk-and-wade fishing opportunities. This section of river is the site of an ongoing battle between anglers and landowners and should be avoided.
Downstream, between the state-provided Johnson Springs and Petticoat Junction public accesses, is the core of the Jackson River wild-trout fishery. Although most of the riverside property here is also privately owned, you can float in a canoe or pontoon boat from one public access point to the next and catch wild rainbows—and some browns—in a scenic wilderness setting. The dispute over who actually owns the river bottom continues statewide, but landowners between these public boat ramps rarely complain about floating anglers leaving their boats to wade, as long as they stay within the river channel.
The Jackson is a relatively large trout river for the South, often 100 feet across with large riffles separated by long, flat pools, excellent for dry-fly fishing. The 19-mile tailwater stretch downstream of Gathright Dam provides superb fly fishing throughout the year. Including the freestone reaches above Lake Moomaw, the river has more than 30 miles of some of the finest trout fishing in the South.
Creating a Tailwater
The Army Corps of Engineers was granted congressional authorization for the dam in 1946, and work on the project began in the 1950s. However, many people opposed the construction of the dam and the associated loss of several miles of free-flowing river. As part of a resulting mitigation agreement, the Corps invested $10 million in a 260-foot mixing tower that takes water from nine different lake levels to keep the water discharge below the dam at an ideal temperature for trout and aquatic insects in the river below. Gathright Dam is a flood-control structure, not a hydroelectricity generator, so there are no turbines or the constantly fluctuating water levels associated with them.
Lake Moomaw (2,500 acres) was filled in 1981, and the first rainbow trout—including some Kamloops strain rainbows—were stocked below the dam in 1989. The stocking program was discontinued in 1993, and though many people expected the trout fishery to deteriorate, natural reproduction is successfully maintaining the trout population. Recent studies show trout populations similar to the years when nearly 100,000 trout were pumped into the river annually. Anglers can instantly recognize the wild, streamborn rainbows by their deep red stripes and often white-tipped fins. The brown trout are also wild but there are fewer of them, especially upriver closer to the dam.
Walk and Wade
The best and most popular access for wading anglers is immediately below Gathright Dam. The roughly quarter-mile-long section requires a free fishing permit available at the Army Corps of Engineers visitor center, and there are picnic tables and restrooms adjacent to the parking area.
Although most trout caught in this area are rainbows in the 6- to 10-inch range, there are some large, angler-savvy trout. Catching fish consistently requires realistic presentations with #18 and smaller midge imitations. Blackfly larvae are also abundant, which contributes to the effectiveness of most small black patterns. If you see fish rising, dead-drift a #20-26 black midge larva under a #18-22 Hi-Vis Griffith’s Gnat with 6X or 7X tippet. If trout aren’t feeding on midges, try rolling a dark #18-20 Serendipity or other reasonable blackfly larva imitation along the bottom, or hang it directly downstream on a tight line.
The largest trout below the dam are less inclined to rise to a small fly, as their diet consists mostly of larger forage items including alewives drawn down from the lake. If you are looking for trout in the 20-inch-plus range, use #2-4 olive/white Matukas or Clouser Minnows at first light or late evening, and focus on the deep abyss directly below the dam outlet. There is no boat ramp in this area, and I don’t recommend starting a float here because the river immediately downstream is heavily posted and has been the subject of several court cases involving property rights and fishing access issues
Floating the Jackson
The most scenic and productive fishing for wild trout is between the Johnson Springs and Petticoat Junction public accesses, and the best way to fish this water is with a canoe or pontoon boat. Larger boats have difficulty passing over some of the skinny areas in low water. There are currently no shuttle services available, so plan accordingly.
Johnson Springs has a small boat ramp and a 75-yard stretch of public wading water downriver. The float from Johnson Springs downstream 6 miles to Smith Bridge may be the Jackson’s best drift for wild rainbow trout. The aquatic insect life in the wild-trout area between Johnson Springs and Petticoat Junction is similar to many rivers in the Southeast. Blue-winged Olives, Quill Gordons, March Browns, Hendricksons, Gray Drakes, Tricos, and Sulphurs are important mayflies but do not discount caddis, sow bugs, scuds, and especially midges.
Most of the hatches occur during spring and early summer. Although the hatches are sometimes sporadic, there are some dependable techniques that catch fish consistently. Midge imitations—#18-22 pupa imitations such as the RS2, Brassie, WD-40, or Blood Midge—on or just below the surface routinely catch fish for me. Use a small pinch-on foam indicator, use a dry fly as an indicator, or grease the leader butt section to help you detect strikes.
Blue-winged Olives (BWOs) hatch from early March through April and again in October. The BWOs are tiny, so use #20 or smaller dry flies for rising trout. If you see BWOs hatching but few fish rising, fish a soft-hackle nymph or Pheasant Tail without an indicator. Let the nymph sink toward the bottom as it drifts through the run or riffle, and slowly raise your rod tip at the end of each drift, allowing the fly to rise to the surface like an emerging insect. This takes considerable practice, but often evokes aggressive takes. Use shorter-than-normal drifts to produce the greatest number of these presentations.
Dead-drift nymphing also provides consistent action. Pheasant Tails tied on #16-18 curved caddis hooks, #12-18 Hare’s-ear Nymphs, and #18 Brassies work like a charm. Use a two-nymph rig with a black #20 midge larva or a #18 gray or chocolate WD-40 as the second fly.
Scud and sow bug imitations (#14-20) are dependable during nonhatch periods throughout the year. Dark Hare’s-ear and olive tones seem the best, but ginger and pinkish-orange versions also work well. Fish beetles, ants, and grasshoppers close to brushy banks, overhanging trees, and near grassy shorelines during the summer and fall when mayfly and caddis activity slows.
Smith Bridge. This area provides wading anglers with the best access to the lower river. A long, tumbling series of riffles and runs just below the bridge can keep you busy for hours, especially if there are bugs hatching. There are more and bigger brown trout downstream of Smith Bridge than in the areas upstream. If you are floating, bring an extra 5- or 6-weight rod rigged with a crayfish or minnow imitation to search for oversized browns and ’bows. High water in the spring can make larger trout more active, making it a good time to high-stick a crayfish pattern along the bottom.
Use a 4- or 5-weight rod for dry-fly fishing and nymphing with smaller flies. Always fish a dropper nymph when dry-fly fishing the lower Jackson, and experiment with larger patterns. A #4-8 Chernobyl Ant, Dave’s Hopper, Turck’s Tarantula, or large Parachute Adams makes a good indicator fly for a small nymph and sometimes brings surprising strikes from larger fish.
Indian Draft. The float from Smith Bridge to Indian Draft is 3 miles of riffle water separated by long and sometimes deep pools with submerged grass beds and large boulders for trout to hide in. While most of the fish are in the 10- to 14-inch range, there are big rainbows and browns in this water. Two-nymph rigs—like a Soft-hackle Pheasant Tail with a scud dropper—below an indicator and some split-shot can easily turn up an 18-inch rainbow.
Petticoat Junction. Four miles below Indian Draft is Petticoat Junction—the last public take-out point before the Westvaco plant and, for most people, the end of the trout fishing water on the Jackson. There is little wade-fishing opportunity at Petticoat Junction and most people use it only as an exit point. Written permission is necessary to fish or to take a boat out downstream of Petticoat Junction.
A float down the Jackson typically starts at the Johnson Springs boat ramp and the distance can range anywhere from 6 to 15 miles, depending on the float, water levels, and how quickly you move. Plan accordingly, and don’t make the common mistake of trying to cover too much river in one day, as some of the best runs can be fished for well over an hour, and you may still be leaving fish behind when you drift away.
Hidden Valley
The best public wading access to the Jackson River is above Lake Moomaw in the Hidden Valley area. This area has 7 miles of hatchery-supported trout water fall through spring, although good populations exist year-round. The Hidden Valley area consists of a 3-mile special-
regulations area with a two-trout daily limit, bordered on the upstream and downstream end by two general trout regulation sections, each about 2 miles long. The upper and lower areas are stocked heavily and attract a lot of bait fishermen, so it’s best to avoid them near stocking time. Stocking information is available online or call (434) 525-3474 for a voice recording of the latest trout stocking information.
In the special-regulations area, it’s rarely necessary to match the hatch. Nymph with generic bead-head patterns like #12-18 Copper Johns, Soft-hackle Hare’s Ears and both regular and Flashback Pheasant Tails.
Spring and early summer offer the best surface activity. Olive- and brown-bodied Elk-hair Caddis (#12-18), Patriots (#10-16), Stimulators (#10-16), Grizzly Wulffs (#12-18), Humpys (#14-18), and Parachute Adams (#14-18) catch plenty of trout.
A wide variety of flies and tactics catch trout in Hidden Valley. Be versatile and you can catch trout on everything from egg patterns to midge larvae and Woolly Buggers.
Hidden Valley receives most of its fishing pressure during spring and fall. When it’s crowded, hike up- or downstream. A well-established trail follows the river and the farther you walk, the less crowded it becomes. The crowds diminish dramatically a week or so after stocking-truck visits, and at times the fishing is better in the two general-regulation areas than in the special-regulation section itself.
Freshly transplanted trout sometimes only eat flies resembling brown food pellets. For these reluctant fish, try small brown nymphs of any sort such as #6-8 peach Krystal Buggers, or #8 orange Glo-Bugs.
Downstream of Hidden Valley there is some river access just above Lake Moomaw. Large lake-dwelling rainbow, brook, and brown trout migrate upstream in the spring and fall, although March and April is the best time to hook one of these monsters.
Alewives are the main forage in the lake, so white-and-gray and white-and-black Clousers and Double Bunnies work best. Use 6-weight and larger rods, and also try #6-12 nymphs like Girdle Bugs, ***** Creeks, and Rubber-legged Copper Johns for the lake-run fish. The public access on the river runs from the lake upstream about a half mile, with long cables stretching across the river to mark the boundaries.
How to Get There
Hidden Valley. Heading north on Route 220, go west on Highway 621 and then north on Hidden Valley Road. To find the upper access area, turn west off Route 220 onto Poor Farm Road (CR 623) and follow the road to the parking area.
Lake Moomaw. The portion of river above Lake Moomaw is located off of Jackson River Road (CR 687). Turn west onto Richardson Gorge Road (CR 603), then follow the road to the parking areas located along the river.
Gathright Dam. From Route 220 north of Covington, turn northwest onto Jackson River Road (CR 687), west onto Natural Well Road (CR 638), north onto East Morris Hill Road (CR 666), and follow Mountain Road (CR 605) to the parking area.
Johnson Springs. Drive south from Gathright Dam on CR 605 for 3 miles and turn left on CR 666. Go .4 mile and turn left on CR 638/Natural Well Road. Turn left after .4 mile to the Johnson Springs parking area.
Smith Bridge. From Johnson Springs, go east on CR 638 for 0.3 mile and turn right on CR 687 (Jackson River Road). Go south 3.8 miles to North Smith Bridge Road, turn left and go .6 mile to the river.
Indian Draft. From Smith Bridge, return west on North Smith Bridge Road to CR 687. Turn left and follow CR 687 south for 1.2 miles to Indian Draft.
Petticoat Junction. From Indian Draft, go south on CR 687 for 2.4 miles to Mays Lane. Turn right and go .2 mile to the river.
Chadwick Crawford is from Lexington, Virginia, but in recent years has spent his summers guiding in Alaska and his winters guiding in South America. This is his first submission to Fly Fisherman.
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