The Williamson river
In 1974 I moved to the small community of Dana, in northern California. One afternoon after fishing the morning’s PMD spinner fall on the Fall River, I struck up a conversation with Bob Cockroft, who is now a renowned guide and fly tier. Bob, like me, had relocated to eastern Shasta County’s trout Shangri-La to fish and peddle his creative flies to anglers and local lodges. We talked about different streams, and Bob mentioned that he was getting ready to go to the Williamson River and asked whether I would care to accompany him. I had heard of the Williamson’s giant fish from Polly Rosborough at a tying seminar years earlier. Needless to say, I cashed in every fly I had, and we were off the next day in Old Orange, a ’51 Chevy pickup.
It was the beginning of summer and hot—105 degrees. The trip went smoothly, and we had to make only one stop north of Tule Lake in an alfalfa field to cool us and Old Orange with sprinklers. Ninety minutes later I caught my first glimpse of the Williamson River while crossing the Highway 97 bridge.
The Williamson River has long been known as the best trophy wild-rainbow fishery in America. It also may be its most unique river and challenging to fish. The relatively cold river flows into the relatively warm, shallow, and rich Klamath Lake, which produces some of the largest trout in America. As the lake warms in summer, many of its large rainbows move into the cooler waters of the Williamson, where they feed on a rich meal of aquatic insects. Their arrival in the river makes for some of fly fishing’s most challenging, and rewarding, fishing.
Heart of the River
The stretch from Chiloquin to Highway 97 bridge is called Heart of the River for several reasons: It gives anglers access to the major holding areas used by the large rainbows and consistently produces double-digit lunkers, and anglers’ heart rates surge while watching the large rainbows sipping on surface insects just off the bank of the access.
The only no-fee public boat launch and access on the Williamson River is below Chiloquin. To get to this access, turn right on Chiloquin Sprague Road (at Pacific Pride Gas station) three miles north of where Highway 62 intersects Highway 97. A quarter of a mile after turning off Highway 97, turn right into the access across the road from the rodeo corrals.
The access has plenty of parking and a minimal restroom facility. Anglers can wade in and fish a few riffles, ledges, and runs around the island. To fish downstream of the access, stay in the river or on existing trails inside the high-water mark and obey and respect signs and property lines. This area fishes best early in the morning, during hatches, and at the last hour of the day. The steep bank at the access makes launching trailored drift boats (the preferred fishing craft on the Williamson River) tricky.
No one uses the wooden slide ramp because it’s awkward and dangerous. Local fishermen and guides back the wheels of their boat trailers next to the drop off so the boat hangs over the edge. A partner keeps his foot on the brake—or if they are alone, they set the parking brake—and then slowly lower the boat off the trailer until it rests on the ground, and then slide it into the river. (You should watch someone do this before attempting it for the first time, and make sure your winch spool is working properly and filled to capacity!)
There are no dangerous rapids on this float trip, but the river has a few tight spots. Small river prams and pontoon boats can easily be slid down the bank and launched, but float tubes or V-hull boats are not recommended.
You can row upstream a third of a mile to fish the Blue Hole, just below the confluence with the Sprague River, before starting the float. Here a wide, steep, terraced riffle stops migrating fish, and the lake rainbows tend to stack up in this area before pushing their way up the river. All the ledges and current breaks are good bets between the Blue Hole and the access.
To start the downstream float, row across the river from the access and float the backside of the island that splits the river. You’ll need to maneuver through riffles and ledges. The character of the river changes back and forth between ledges and riffles to quiet flowing sections. Prime spots to look for fish are near large underwater boulders, ledges, and along the willow-lined banks. The surrounding country is timbered mountainside with massive trees, snags, and rock outcroppings. Bald eagles frequent these spots, and meadow sections, spruce, and pine woodlands coupled with the fragrance of wildflowers and forest scents create a pastoral experience.
The float is between three and four miles, depending on the takeout that you use. There are no pubic pullouts downstream, but if you stay at the Rapids Motel or Lonesome Duck Resort, you can use their boat pullouts above the Highway 97 bridge. The Rapids is on Highway 97 across from the junction of Highway 62, and Lonesome Duck Lodge, which caters to fly fishers, is upstream on the opposite side of the river. There is no established shuttle service on the river, so you should inquire with lodges and guides and campgrounds or bring an extra vehicle or motorbike.
The other pullout is downstream from the Highway 97 bridge at the Water Wheel Campground, which has camping and RV sites (with hookups) that overlook the river. As of this writing Water Wheel Campground charges $5 to use its ramp or access the river for wade fishing. The current below the boat ramp is gentle and can be navigated up or downstream with oars.
At the end of the slow section, stay above the ledge that prevents you from rowing back upstream. Motors are allowed in this stretch, but no fishing is allowed while the motor is running. Fishing can be as good here as anywhere on the river, especially early in the season and during the Hexagenia hatch, which is usually going strong by July 4.
Below the Water Wheel, the Williamson slows and deepens and crosses under Modoc Road bridge and flows for several miles before emptying into Upper Klamath Lake. In this section motorboat fishing is allowed, and it is popular with trollers. This is not good fly-fishing water except at the mouth of the river, where fish can sometimes be caught with streamers.
In most years, fishing gets good on the lower Williamson by the middle of June when the temperature in Klamath Lake starts to climb, causing the fish to seek cooler water. More and more fish enter the Williamson as summer temperatures warm Upper Klamath Lake. The river always fishes well for lake rainbows by mid-July, even in high-water years.
Kirk to Chiloquin
After flowing out of Klamath Marsh, the river regroups and flows over waterfalls into a canyon before slowing down above Collier State Park. The best fishing is below the canyon in the two miles just above Collier Park. Fish stack up in this area because they can’t get into the canyon in low fall flows, and many of the fish spawn in Spring Creek and the other small spring creeks (closed to fishing) that flow into the Williamson just above Collier Park. The park has camping, and though there is no formal boat launch, you can launch a small pram or pontoon boat to float the river, though regulations prohibit fishing from the boat. You can access the river from a Forest Service campground off of NFD 9730.
Copyright © 2012 Intermedia Outdoors
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