Understanding Rod Actions
One of the most subjective topics in fly fishing—one that is endlessly debated during slow moments in a drift boat, over coffee in local fly shops, and at the bar in fly-fishing lodges around the world—is the subject of rod actions. It’s a challenge for manufacturers trying to explain just how their latest and greatest rods feel in your hands, for writers trying to pass along the same kind of pertinent information, and most importantly for consumers trying to make wise purchases.
Historical Actions
In the middle of the 20th century, rod makers like Charles Ritz proclaimed the advantages of the “parabolic” rod, an action defined by the shape of the rod (an open parabola) under loading.
Later, a “progressive” rod action was the Holy Grail of fly fishing. Rod manufacturers went to great lengths to describe how at short distances only the rod tip flexed to cast the line, and at longer distances the rod loaded progressively deeper into the butt section to tap into the “reserve power” of the stiffer butt section.
We must be a slightly more sophisticated bunch now because while “parabolic” sounds mathematically impressive, a parabolic curve in a rod means literally that it bends in the middle and is symmetrical on both sides (although Charles Ritz probably intended a deeper meaning).
Even a parabolic rod won’t bend in the middle with a short line, you must load the rod precisely to achieve an exact parabolic curve. And don’t all rods load “progressively” as you cast more line?
It’s all Relative
Today most fly fishers talk about slow-, medium-, and fast-action rods, and most expert casters prefer fast-action rods in many situations because they allow you to produce higher line speeds and cast greater distances. However, this is not the entire story.
The terms “medium-action” or “fast-action” are descriptions of speed and refer to the time it takes for the rod to straighten after flexing or loading. This recovery time depends mostly on how deeply the rod bends with a standard length and weight of line.
If only the tip of the rod bends while casting, it travels a shorter distance to come to the straight position, and in relative terms can be described as a “fast” rod. If the rod bends deeply, the tip must travel farther to come to the straight position and the rod is then described as “medium” or “slow” depending on how deeply it bends.
If you are casting the rod, your stroke timing follows the rod action. With a fast-action rod, or a rod that flexes mostly at the tip, your false-casting rhythm will be quick compared to a deeper-bending rod at equal distances.
So which is best? Slow, medium, or fast? The answer depends on you and the type of fishing you intend to engage in. There is no universal correct answer.
First you should understand that even a fast-action rod bends deeply and requires a slower casting rhythm if you cast longer distances. If you cast 90 feet with a 5-weight you will likely bend even a fast-action rod well into the butt, and have to slow down your timing to carry all that line. Conversely, a slow-action rod will likely flex only at the tip if you have stalked to within 10 feet of a rising trout.
If you normally fish at short distances with small dry flies, a slow- or medium-action rod loads easier, and is likely more pleasant to fish. Rods in this category include G.Loomis Whisper Creek, Orvis Superfine Trout Bum (Mid Flex), Sage TXL, Winston WT, and others.
If you frequently cast long distances, you want a fast-action rod that won’t wilt when you push its limits. These are rods that don’t bend into the middle until you are casting well past 60 feet. Examples of fast-action rods include G.Loomis Max GLX, Orvis Helios (Tip Flex), Sage TCX, Winston Boron II-MX, and most saltwater rods.
Your rod action or speed is not just a matter of timing, it also influences (but does not dictate) your loop size. It’s easier to make the tip of a fast-action rod move along a straight path than it is with a slow-action rod. Therefore fast-action rods help you throw tighter loops that are more efficient and help you cast farther or defeat the wind.
A wide-open loop, however, is easier to control at medium distances and is less likely to result in tangles with multiple-fly rigs. If you do a lot of nymphing with a strike indicator, two or more heavy nymphs, and split-shot, the last thing you want is a tight loop with the top and bottom of your line traveling just inches apart—you’ll invariably end up with tangles. In this instance you want a rod to help throw an open loop that doesn’t require perfect timing, and allows some margin for error. Sage’s 99 Series rods are explicitly designed around this principal and there are other 9' to 10' medium-action rods on the market that are also sweet nymphing sticks.
In the end, the words “fast” or “medium” are only general terms that just begin to describe a rod action. They don’t tell the whole story. The subtle differences in rod actions—not just between different manufacturers but between different rod series from the same manufacturer, and between different line weights in the same rod series—are so complex, so nuanced, that reams of paper cannot begin to explain which rod you will like the best. In the end, you simply have to cast the rod at your local fly shop and find “the one” that feels right for you and the fishing you enjoy.
Copyright © 2012 Intermedia Outdoors
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