Seams, Stitches, & Suspenders
In an idyllic fly-fishing universe, waders wouldn’t leak—period. Close your eyes and envision seams that hold like deadbolt locks, fabrics that are bulletproof against natural wear and tear, and replace the stench of last season’s sweat with the sweet smell of fresh-cut roses. Now wake up. In reality, your waders will leak, it’s only a matter of how soon.
Barring a bad accident with barbed wire, a great pair of waders should keep you dry from 200 to 400 days onstream depending on how and where you use them. Cheaper waders—with fewer layers of less durable material, less engineering in the seams and feet, and inadequate sizing, can leak and wear out much more quickly.
In recent years, little of significance has changed in the world of wader fabrics, and manufacturers have mostly focused on improving the pockets, zippers, belts, suspenders, and other accessories. Wader options have at the same time blossomed into myriad styles to suit specific needs from skinny-water wading pants to chest-highs, convertibles, and the winter warmth only a bootfoot can provide.
The most significant improvements have been made to wader seams, which in the best waders have been repositioned away from traditional stress zones for a stronger, longer-lasting build.
Seams 101
The seam attaches two pieces of fabric together and is an obvious weakness in the defense against leaks. Wader seams are usually sewn and glued with products such as Seamgrip. However, sewing and then seam taping is now the industry standard.
Orvis’s new Sonicseam waders use a stitch-free, heat-welded seam, which, according to the company, is less prone to pinhole leaks.
Because seams are unavoidable, companies such as L.L. Bean have been working to cut the total number of this necessary evil, lessening the overall odds of failure. Bean’s new Helix wader, through a spiral construction process, has been trimmed to six seams.
Simms and Patagonia, on the other hand, haverepositioned the seams on some of their high-end waders away from notorious wear zones along the inside of the leg. The Simms G4 Pro wader, for example, has seams running up and down the front and back of the pant, as opposed to the inside of the legs, where chafing can induce premature failure.
The Right/Wrong Fit
When shopping for waders, consider the seam construction, the type of material (Gore-Tex or H2No), and sizing and comfort. How the waders fit has a major impact on your comfort and more importantly, the lifespan of the waders. Shop for waders that have a size corresponding to your build, articulated legs, a gusseted crotch, and anatomically correct booties for less bulk and better circulation and movement. Waders become useless if the crotch is so low you can’t step over a downed tree, or you have baggy “elephant knees” that bunch up, chafe, and then leak.
Just like people, waders come in all shapes and sizes and trying them on helps you get the fit right. Breathable waders should be loose enough to allow for one or two layers of synthetic, fleece, or wool tops and bottoms. Too big and you’ll be flapping in the breeze, ballooned and bunched, and prone to snags. Too tight and you diminish mobility and layering options.
Think slim; but functional. Also make sure the booties are the right fit and consider the comfort of the suspenders.
Patagonia’s new Guidewater waders take foot comfort a step beyond, reported our testers, with merino wool grid-lined neoprene booties, which wick perspiration, and increase warmth by creating more dead-air space around the foot.
Maintenance and Repair
Ultimately, wader lifespan depends as much on your care and usage, as it does on manufacturer research and development. If you’re a bush-whacking, crawl-on-your-knees kind of fly fisher, consider paying for the toughest waders you can find.
On the other hand, if you are cautious, stick to the meadows, and walk around the Russian olives instead of pushing through, economically priced waders can last a long time.
After using, hang your waders to dry. Leaving them rolled or folded in a wet ball can trigger destructive mildew. When you are traveling, roll up dry waders, don’t fold them. Repetitious folding causes creases and eventually leaks.
Waterproof/breathable fabrics perform best when they are clean. Dirt clogs membrane pores and hampers breathability. When waders stop breathing, you’ll start feeling wet inside and may falsely believe they are leaking.
Occasional washing, then thoroughly drying your waders, is the best way to reactivate their fresh-out-of-box capabilities. For the best washing results, follow the manufacturer’s instructions. After washing, apply a DWR water repellent coating such as NikWax or Revivex.
Most new waders come with repair kits for pinhole leaks and small tears. Waterproof sealers such as Loon Outdoors UV Wader Repair, AqualSeal—a polyurethane glue—or Seam Seal work well in a pinch. Again, follow the manufacturer’s instructions, and if you are at all unclear, contact them directly. Some wader repairs, such as patches on seams, can void your warranty.
Reduce, Reuse, and RIP
Beyond your loving care and the manufacturer’s material means, eventually, your waders will die. Instead of burying your deceased outerwear in the backyard alongside Muffy the cat, Seattle-based company Recycled Waders (recycledwaders.com) will reclaim them for reincarnation into its ingenious product line of everything from packs, bags, and wallets to neoprene reel cases and beer koozies.
Copyright © 2012 Intermedia Outdoors
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