Exploring Jackson Hole
In one of my first experiences fishing the Snake River, we hiked out to a gravel bar and found a nice riffle with a deep drop-off. We had the place to ourselves. I tumbled a double nymph rig over the drop-off, mended for a clean drift, and watched my bobber like a hawk.
Somewhere around the fifth or sixth whitefish you’d think I’d have clued in, but instead I sat down to enjoy the view of the Tetons and watch my friend try his luck. He tied on a big orange Stimulator with a small red Copper John on a 1-foot dropper, and cast it just inside the eddy line. Two drifts later the Stimmy dove violently, doubling over the rod. I soon saw a large, golden-red flank roll on the surface and disappear again, and that was all I needed to get off my butt and run down to the water, nearly face-planting as I tripped over my loose wader suspenders. A few minutes later we were looking at a 21-inch native cutthroat with a girth my friend could barely get his hands around.
Few places offer such expansive opportunities to pursue native trout as the Jackson Hole area: crawling on your hands and knees while stalking sippers on technical spring creeks such as Flat Creek, hiking to alpine lakes, exploring freestone streams in bear country, and drift-boating a classic Western river while casting big drys—all this within an hour’s drive of Jackson.
Upper Snake
The Snake is one of the major arteries of the West, flowing 1,040 miles from Yellowstone National Park, in Wyoming, all the way across Idaho, Oregon, and into the Columbia River. One of the finest trout-fishing stretches along the river’s entire length—for both wading and drifting—is the section between Jackson Lake and Palisades Reservoir.
Wade access along the Snake in the Jackson area isn’t hard to find. Often the bigger challenge is finding places to do it safely. In Grand Teton National Park, you can wade just about anywhere you can hike in, except the 150 feet of river directly below Jackson Dam.
South of the park, there are numerous access points, such as the pathways paralleling the river north and south of Wilson Bridge, and any of the boat ramp areas. During summer flows, wading anglers should stick to side channels and slow-moving sections of river. Attempting to wade the Snake’s main flow is a recipe for a swim, or worse. During early spring pre-runoff flows, and in fall, when flows are again drawn down, wading opportunities greatly increase.
The 5-mile section of the Snake from Jackson Dam to Pacific Creek Landing—known as Oxbow Bend—is best suited to wading or floating in a canoe or pontoon boat, and is really the only stretch suitable for beginning boaters. The gentle-flowing water, with impressive views of Mount Moran in the background, offers a mellow float in what almost feels like a large spring creek.
There are large trout in this section, and it is one of the few places on the Snake where you should use realistic patterns—the slow-moving water means fish have the luxury of taking a good look at your fly before deciding to eat. This stretch is also less susceptible than downstream sections to runoff effects such as turbidity, and is often fishable in late spring when the rest of the river is not.
Deadman’s Bar to Moose Landing is a drift that should be taken seriously. The first time you float, go with someone who knows the river, as there is a steep gradient and complex braiding with side channels that may close out.
Many accidents occur along this 10-mile stretch, but with an experienced oarsman who knows the river, it offers excellent fishing and unbeatable scenery. There is an alternative takeout midway at Schwabacher’s Landing, but it requires a tight turn into a side channel on river left, and is not accessible at lower flows.
Moose Landing to Wilson Bridge is another worthy float, with many side channels to explore and opportunities to stop and wade along the way. This float originates in the park, and you need to obtain a boat permit from the National Park Service to launch. During high summer flows, use caution.
Wilson Bridge to South Park Bridge is a popular float, and many outfitters guide it. From South Park Bridge, you can take either an easy half-day float to the Astoria boat ramp or a longer day to Pritchard Creek or even West Table. Below West Table, the Snake enters a whitewater canyon popular with kayakers and rafters. The canyon should be attempted only by experienced boatmen who are familar with the local hazards.
Like any major Western river, the Snake fluctuates greatly throughout the year. Flows vary from an average high of 5,000 cubic feet per second (cfs) in May or June (or both), to winter flows of 200 cfs or less. Channels change, and hazards such as downed trees shift, disappear, or pop up elsewhere. If you are floating the Snake for the first time, I strongly recommend using a guide.
Gros Ventre River
A primary tributary of the Snake, the Gros Ventre
(gro¯w vo˘nt) is home to a healthy population of fine-spotted Yellowstone cutthroat, rainbows, and cuttbows. The Gros Ventre is a classic freestone fishery of riffles, pools, and runs for much of its 50-mile length, which begins in the Bridger-Teton National Forest and flows through the National Elk Refuge, Grand Teton National Park, and sections of private property.
Highway 191 north of Jackson leads to Gros Ventre Road, which parallels the river. The upper reaches of this unpaved road can be a nightmare in wet weather. Public access is plentiful along much of the Gros Ventre but there is private property, so heed any no-trespassing warnings.
There are two campgrounds along the Gros Ventre in the Bridger-Teton National Forest: Atherton Creek Campground is at Lower Slide Lake; Crystal Creek Campground is 6 miles upstream near the confluence of the Gros Ventre and Crystal Creek. Either campground provides a fantastic base for exploring the river.
The Gros Ventre was historically stocked with rainbows, but that practice has thankfully been halted, and the wild cutthroat fishing has greatly improved.
Copyright © 2012 Intermedia Outdoors
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